Materials
The content on this page is basically a general discussion related to the variety of mediums I use and offer.
Overview
I use a variety of materials for the projects
that I build. I experiment with different mediums, tooling,
finishing techniques and products all the time to find out what does
and doesn't work in various situations and conditions. Sometimes
these experiments turn into happy accidents, if there truely is such
a thing. I draw inspiration from this which in return helps fuel
creativity. Each type of material and tool has different
characteristics, properties and qualities that can effect machining,
assembly, finishing, aesthetics and the intended end use. These are
all important factors that are taken into consideration early in the
design process of a given project. I have discovered there are
materials and products better suited for certain project types, much
in the same way that some materials and products perform better
under various environmental conditions. Also, just like good wine
and food, there are materials that pair very nicely. When combined
properly they can take things to a higher level.
To aid in understanding the correlation of all this, I will
share a couple examples. Please note that these examples are just
random and generic, they are by no means exhaustive, nor do they
represent someone's actual project. Let's say our project today is a sign. The
intended end use is, it will be displayed outside and continuously
exposed to all of nature's elements. Nature is very unforgiving.
There are actually several options available for a project like this
and it would require more detailed information to make a proper
choice for the materials, but in order to keep things simple for
our example here we will assume that this sign is for a business, it
needs to last say 5 to 10 years or maybe even more and the design calls for it to be a
layered 3D monument style sign. Well that tidbit of information just narrowed
some of the
options to use for base materials and finishes. For this
project I would suggest using HDU (high density urethane), PVC
(polyvinyl chloride) or aluminum composite for the
materials. Also just to note, all these materials can and often do
get combine and incorporated into a single sign project, however for
simplicity of our example project let us use the HDU on it's own.
HDU is designed specifically for outdoor
signage. The manufacturers of this type product offer it in
different densities and thickness. It stands up to the elements and
can last a long time, sometimes even decades, in fact this material
in general will outlast the finish on it. It machines very well and can be painted
nicely. It can
be bonded together similar to wood being glued. For the paint,
enamel is usually a solid choice but not the only one, acrylic latex
is good too. When cured
enamel is hard and tough. When it comes to signage, especially
outdoors, today we have so many options that it is almost crazy. In
the end, it usually comes down to a couple of factors that decide
what materials get used in a particular sign, the design and or
style and the budget.
For example two, let's say our project is a relief carving
utilizing a piece of clipart that caught your eye. The intended end
use is; it will hang on the wall indoors of a house. Since this
project is inside and it is a relief carving, the standard material
of choice is wood, but not the only one. With relief carvings in
wood, I suggest species that have lighter tones and preferably not a
lot of figure or knots. Figure refers to heavy grain action. Heavy
grain and knots make the carving less visible, it doesn't stand out
as well, it tends to be over shadowed by the figure of the wood.
This is not always the case though, it depends on the detail of the
carving and how heavy the figure is. I have found that relief
carvings in dark wood usually end up being less than desirable, at
least to me. The detail of the art does not stand out very well.
Think of it like trying to look at a photograph with the lights
dimmed low and the curtains closed, you can still see it, but you
really don't see the full image. There are many wood species that
offer lighter tones and low figure that work great for relief
carvings. The subject matter of the carving does at times have
influence on how it should be finished. I recommend either a glaze
effect or oil pastels. Since our example is a piece of clipart, they
both would be acceptable. At this point it comes down to the look
you are going for. However, if this were a 3D relief photo carving,
the glaze effect is about the only real choice available. The glazes
I use are water based and I have had success with them. To date I
have used two different types of oil pastels, a solid stick type and
a powder type. I use a different technique to apply each type. I
have found through experimentation, even though they both are oil
pastels, they have different properties and characteristics, also,
depending on the project the end results can and do vary.
Mediums That I Use
I have put together a list of the most popular mediums I use and associated them with the product type for which they are best suited. Over time as I discover and experiment with different mediums, techniques, products and tooling, I will be sure to update this information. What I have listed below, is merely the beginning.
- Wood: For the most part I only work with domestic hardwoods. The majority of wood is sourced from local mills. Wood can be used for relief carvings, urns, awards, signage, keepsake boxes, name plates, trophies and plaques.
- Solid Surface: The solid surface material I use for these products, lithophanes, photo v-carvings and halftones is actually the same stuff used for counter tops, just much thinner. There are several companies that manufacture and distribute it under name brands.
- Acrylic: This material is basically a hard plastic. I use cast acrylic for edge lighting.
- Hardwood Veneer Plywood: This medium is excellent for 2D plaques because more often than not the carved portion is painted, hiding the multiple layers that are exposed from the carving process.
- HDU: This is high density urethane. Some manufacturers formulate a product line that is specifically designed for use as outdoor signage. This stuff has been tried and true by many for a long time now. This material is versatile and could easily and effectively be used for projects other than outdoor signage. Also, as a side note, the brand that I use most often is environmentally friendly (a green product). It is nontoxic, VOC and CFC free. Every full size sheet contains 240 recycled plastic water bottles.
- LED's: Light emitting diodes are what I use to illuminate lithophanes and edge light displays. LED's can be used for certain signage and stained glass projects as well.
- MDF: MDF stands for medium density fiberboard. I have discovered that this stuff works really well for photo v-carvings. For this type of carving it is a nice alternative to solid surface because it is less expensive per square foot.
Material Cost
It should come as no surprise to most that the
cost of materials in the modern world fluctuates regularly and in
the end the price always seems to just keep going up. If I can find
deals from suppliers on stuff that I use frequently I try to take
advantage of that by stocking up. This is one of the ways in which I
make an effort to keep project expenses at their minimum without
sacrifice to quality.
Hardwood is a natural raw material that is a product of
nature, it is a tree. Materials such as solid surface, acrylic, HDU,
plywood and MDF are all manufactured products by mankind. These are
typically made using combinations of natural raw materials and what
I call man made materials. I call it man made because it is
basically something cooked up in a lab. Essentially all man made
materials almost always include some sort of natural raw material as
an ingredient to the recipe. Anyway, I am starting to get slightly
off topic. The point of this in relationship to the cost of
materials is that typically man made manufactured products have
higher price tags than natural raw materials and in some cases a lot
higher.
Wood from mills is priced by the board foot. Board foot, is a unit
of measurement for hardwood lumber. One board foot is, one foot long
by one foot wide by one inch thick. Different
species of wood have a different price per board foot. Wood also has
different grade levels that effect the price per board foot. The
thickness also effects the price per board foot. As you can see
there are several things that contribute to the cost and because of
this there is a wide range in the pricing, so much so that even the
same species can have a different price. For example, let's say I
just picked up some maple, I got some that was one-inch-thick and it
was $7.25 per board foot. I also got some that was three inches
thick (same maple just thicker) and it was $8.40 per board foot. Please note that this is an example and that the actual price shown
is fictitious as it is intended for demonstration purposes only.
Materials like solid surface, HDU, acrylic, MDF and plywood
are typically referred to as being sheet goods. In general, more
often than not sheet goods are made available in one common size
which is a four foot by eight foot (4'x8') piece called a sheet.
Depending on which type of material it is and the manufacturer of
the product they can be available in a choice of different thickness
as well. Sheet goods are commonly priced out by the sheet or either
per square foot. A couple of examples of this would be plywood and
MDF, they are almost always priced per sheet where as solid surface
and acrylic is typically priced per square foot.
Please keep in mind, as I mentioned earlier this is just a general
discussion, so as with most stuff there are always exceptions to any
of this.